Bay of Islands near Peterborough

Peterborough (including Bay of Islands Coastal Park and Port Campbell National Park)
Small, tranquil holiday resort on the Great Ocean Road
Peterborough is a small, tranquil, low-key fishing and holiday resort of about 200 people situated on the western side of the Curdies River estuary which forms a broad inlet behind the town. Peterborough is located on the Great Ocean Road 247 km south-west of Melbourne between Port Campbell (13 km to the east) andWarrnambool (53 km to the west). On the eastern side of the river mouth is Port Campbell National Park and on the western side of Peterborough is the Bay of Islands Coastal Park. Both are characterised by sheer limestone cliffs, offshore islands, towering rock stacks, gorges, arches, blowholes and other striking rock formations. Thus Peterborough, with its small beaches and sandhills, presents an atypical, family-friendly, if less spectacular, aspect of the south-west coast.

The caravan parks and camping grounds of Peterborough are popular at summertime. There is a seaside golf course, a picnic area beside Curdies River and plenty of fishing and swimming opportunities in the river and sea.

Middens around Massacre Bay (just to the west of Peterborough) are testimony to Aboriginal contact with the area. The place names - Massacre Bay, Massacre Point, Bay of Martyrs - refer to a strong component of local oral history which suggests that Europeans killed a large group of Kirrae-Wurrong Aboriginal men by driving them off the cliffs hereabouts. The women and children were allegedly killed in a nearby swamp. Although there is, not surprisingly, no written evidence, it seems the local Aboriginal population dropped from a couple of thousand to virtually nil at some point, which may suggest migration but this is not what local folklore suggests.

The Peterborough area was allegedly settled by Europeans when a giant clipper called the 'Schomberg' was wrecked on a rock just east of Curdies Inlet (now known as Schomberg Rock) in 1855. The captain had previously set a record of 68 days for a run from Liverpool to Melbourne and was attempting to make the present trip in 60 days. Some of those who came to view the wreck allegedly decided to stay.

There have been numerous shipwrecks along this stretch of coast. In 1877 the schooner 'Young Australia' was driven ashore at Curdies Inlet after receiving damage to its foretop mast at Cape Nelson during inclement weather. No lives were lost.

Five years later the 'Newfield' was grounded 1 km east of Curdies Inlet when the captain mistook the Otway lighthouse for the King Island light. Captain Scott and several other seamen died and are buried at the Port Campbell cemetery. Spectators were apparently disappointed to find that the cargo (or booty) consisted only of rock salt.

In 1908 the 'Falls of Halladale', bound from New York, was wedged between two reefs at what is now Halladale Point when the captain's judgment was impaired by heavy fog (some of the cargo is at Flagstaff Maritime Village at Warrnambool).

Former prime minister Malcolm Fraser once owned a holiday home at Peterborough.

Things to see:  

Peterborough Beach
The beach at Peterborough is hemmed between cliffs and has a feeling of some solitude. It is readily accessible and ideal for swimming, fishing and surfing.

Curdies Inlet
Curdies Inlet is a large open stretch of calm water behind the sand dunes which is in considerable contrast to the turbulence of the Southern Ocean. It offers safe swimming, sailboarding, boating and fishing opportunities.

The Bay of Islands Coastal Park and Port Campbell National Park - General Remarks
The Bay of Islands Coastal Park extends westwards for 32 km from the Peterborough golf course to Lake Gillear, 8 km east of Warrnambool. Port Campbell National Park (1750 ha) extends east from the eastern side of Curdies Inlet at Peterborough to Point Ronald at Princetown. Both feature some beautiful vantage points atop the sheer cliffs overlooking offshore islands, towering rock stacks, gorges, arches, blowholes and other spectacular coastal scenery. There are opportunities for snorkelling, walking, beachcombing, photography and surf fishing. As the Great Ocean Road passes right along most of the coastline in question it makes for some excellent scenic driving. Tourism Victoria has put together the Shipwreck Trail, the Great Southern Touring Route and the Volcanic Trail and information on these is available from the information centres at Warrnambool, Port Fairy, Port Campbell, Geelong and Colac.

The sculpted coastline has its origins around 10-20 million years ago when billions of tiny skeletal fragments accumulated beneath the sea gradually creating limestone formations. The sea then retreated leaving the soft limestone exposed above sea-level to violent seas and strong winds which have carved out some remarkable features.

Shell middens along the coast have provided evidence of the ancient presence, the diverse diet and the lifestyle of the Kirrae-Wurong people. Sealers and whalers were the first European visitors to these shores. As the colony grew Bass Strait became a major shipping route for cargo ships.

The salt-laden winds on the exposed clifftops have not managed to deter the development of some fragile grasslands and heathlands which support a half-dozen nationally significant plant species including the metallic sun orchid and the scented spider orchid.

The fauna is mostly ornithological - honeyeaters, southern emu-wrens, superb fairy-wrens, swamp harriers and the rare rufous bristlebird which lives near the ground amidst sword-grass tussocks and coast beard-heath (look for the long uplifted tail which jerks upwards and bobs about as it runs through the grasslands). Peregrine falcons can sometimes be seen flying above the cliff-tops. Pelicans, ducks, black swans and egrets inhabit the estuaries and wetlands. Penguins, terns and dotterels hang about the shoreline and hooded plovers nest in very exposed beach locations so watch for eggs when walking above the high tide line. Australasian gannets, wandering albatrosses and short-tailed shearwaters can be seen out to sea. Southern brown bandicoots, swamp antechinuses and echidnas are also found in the parks.

Camping and sleeping overnight in vehicles is forbidden but there is accommodation available at Peterborough, Port Campbell and Princetown.

There are good opportunities for reef and wreck diving off the park but it is advisable to check with local divers first or ring Parks Victoria on 03 5598 6382.

Bay of Islands Coastal Park - Specific Features
Just to the west of the golf course is Wild Dog Cove which has a secluded little beach with rock pools and safe paddling for family groups. There is a small carpark with steps leading down to the beach. A dirt walking track extends westwards past Halladale Point to the Bay of Martyrs although the quality of the track is better at the Bay of Martyrs end.

Further west along the Great Ocean Road is a turnoff into a dirt track which leads to a small carpark at Worm Bay which is a popular fishing spot with sheer red cliffs projecting out on either side. Usage of this carpark is not strongly recommended due to its size and the problematic access. However, Worm Bay is directly east of the Bay of Martyrs (see next entry) which therefore is a ready point of access to Worm Bay.

Thus it is a very short distance to the heavily signposted Bay of Martyrs carpark. There are viewing areas, interpretative signage and a short but spectacular self-guided clifftop walk from the eastern end of the carpark which leads to Point Halladale where there is seating and signage relating to the shipwreck of the 'Falls of Halladale' which ran aground here in 1908. Fine beach walking can also be enjoyed at the Bay of Martyrs.

Further west again, via the Great Ocean Road, is Massacre Bay. A new carpark has recently been completed work is being done to create boardwalks and viewing areas which will protect the middens and other archaeological material of the area from harm.

Next is the carpark and viewing area above Crofts Bay, a secluded beach area with a spectacular cliff line, fishing opportunities and some fine beach walking.

The next carpark is associated with the Bay of Islands, 8 km west of Peterborough via the Great Ocean Road. As its name suggests the bay enfolds a series of tiny offshore islands. A walking track starts from the carpark and leads along the coastline to viewing platforms with perspectives over the bay. Rock stacks offshore provide nesting sites for silver gulls while another is home to Victoria's only marine cormorant, the rare black-faced cormorant.

A little further west a signposted side road on the left leads out to Boat Bay where there is a boat ramp.

From this point the Great Ocean Road heads inland, passing through some unspectacular rural scenery. However, a series of side roads on the left lead back out to points on the coast. About 7 km from Boat Bay is the turnoff into Radford Road which leads out to a carpark with a viewing area, information boards and shipwreck views.

About 8 km beyond the turnoff into Radford Road is the turnoff into Mathieson Road which leads to a carpark with a lookout above Three Mile Beach.

A fraction beyond the Mathieson Rd turnoff is another turnoff into Childers Cove Rd. Keep turning left and you will end up at Childers Cove where the barque 'Children' was wrecked in 1839 with the loss of 16 lives. There is a carpark, viewing area, picnic tables and toilets. To the immediate east are a series of bays, beaches, coves and points. The Childers Cove Road leads back to an intersection which gives you the option of veering right back to Peterborough or left to Warrnambool.

Port Campbell National Park
Just to the east of Peterborough is Newfield Bay which is a popular surf-fishing and beach-walking spot.

About 4 km east of Peterborough, via the Great Ocean Road, is a turnoff on the right which leads to a lookout over 'The Grotto' - a geological formation created when sinkholes in the limestone cliffs met with a receding cliff line.

About another 2 km east is the turnoff to four viewing platforms over London Bridge - a natural archway and tunnel in an offshore rock formation caused by waves eroding away a portion of softer rock. The main arch collapsed in 1990 thus making London Bridge nothing more than two stacks. Artificial burrows have been built to encourage the nesting of fairy penguins. There is no access to the beach.

About another 600 metres east, just beyond Point Hesse, is the lookout over The Arch, which is another rock formation caused by water erosion.

For further information on either Park, ring the Parks Victoria information line on 131 963 or the Port Campbell office on (03) 5598 6382. For information on points of interest located further east in Port Campbell National Park, see entry on Port Campbell.

A Book About The Great Ocean Road
The best book about the Great Ocean Road is the remarkably cheap ($19.95 for a full colour hardback) book by Port Campbell photographer, Rodney Hyett. It is 96 pages long and has everything you could possibly want ­ great photographs, maps of the area, a potted history of the area, details about national parks and visitor information centres, accommodation, walking tracks, even details of the region's eight lighthouses and succinct (not as detailed as this website) pieces of information about all the major destinations from Queenscliff to Cape Bridgewater. If you are planning to travel the Great Ocean Road and explore the totality of its attractions this is a small masterpiece of publishing and a great travel guide. It is available from many shops along the way and can be ordered from Port Campbell Shopping at http://www.portcampbellshopping.com.au.

	Motels
	Peterborough Motel Irvine St Peterborough VIC 3270 Telephone: (03) 5598 5251 Rating: ***1/2
	Schomberg Inn Motel/Hotel Great Ocean Rd Peterborough VIC 3270 Telephone: (03) 5598 5285 Rating: **
	Caravan Parks
	Great Ocean Road Tourist Park Great Ocean Rd Peterborough VIC 3270 Telephone: (03) 5598 5477 Rating: ***
	Restaurants
	Schomberg Inn Motel/Hotel Great Ocean Rd Peterborough VIC 3270 Telephone: (03) 5598 5285