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The Crags to the west of Port Fairy
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Port Fairy
(including Lady Julia Percy Island)
Attractive and historic port on the coast to the
west of the Great Ocean Road.
Port Fairy is one of those delightful towns where you
feel as though if you stay another day you suddenly find a whole extra
world of things to see and do. There are museums, historic walks,
pleasant stretches of coastline, a fascinating harbour, charming olde
worlde cottages which gleam in the sun and the Port Fairy Folk Festival
(in March) is recognised as the best of its kind in Australia.
Port Fairy is located 290 km west of Melbourne on
the eastern headland of Portland Bay. It was inhabited by the Knarn
Kolak Aborigines long before the arrival of Europeans. They lived a
simple life beside the sea and their middens testify to the success of
their fishing.
In the earliest years of the nineteenth century whalers and
sealers worked along this stretch of rugged coastline. Seals were used
for their leather and oil and whales were vital parts of the corset,
perfume and soap industries.
As early as 1810 Captain James Wishart, a sealer working the
southern coast, anchored at Port Fairy. He explored the Moyne River and
revisited the area regularly. By the mid-1820s the 'harbour' was known
as Port Fairy, probably after Wishart's cutter 'The Fairy'.
It is known that by 1835 a whaling station had been
established on the island at the mouth of the Moyne River. It was
purchased by John Griffiths who has given his name to the island. It
was around this time that two sealers, John and Charles Mills, built
simple huts on Griffiths Island which stands at the mouth of the Moyne
River. As the seals in the area were killed off the Mills brothers
moved over to whaling and they were active in the area until whaling
ceased in 1843. The whalers built the distinctive bluestone cottages
which are still dotted throughout the town. The houses of both John and
Charles Mills still stand in the town.
By 1839 John Cox, who has sailed across Bass Strait from
Launceston, opened a store on the site which is now the corner of Cox
and Gipps Streets.
The town began to grow in the early 1840s. In 1843 a
Sydney solicitor James Atkinson purchased 5120 acres (2072 hectares) of
land at Port Fairy for £1 per acre. He converted the sealing
community into a modern port by draining the swamps around the town,
subdividing and selling/leasing the land and building the harbour on
the Moyne River. So proud was Atkinson of his handiwork that he decided
to rename the town Belfast, after the Irish city which he called home.
A similar project was undertaken by William Rutledge who had also
received 5120 acres in 1843. The result was that Belfast became the
largest privately-owned town in Australia and the few local residents,
who had simply squatted prior to Atkinson's purchase, suddenly found
themselves paying rent to their new landlord.
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A boy fishing at the mouth of
the Moyne River
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As a result
agriculture in the area developed rapidly and there were years when up
to 20 vessels came to Port Fairy just to load the onions and potatoes
for sale in Melbourne. By 1857 there were 2190 people living in
Belfast. It wasn't until 1887 that the town was renamed Port Fairy,
this was as a result of a special act of parliament.
Today Port Fairy prospers on a combination of tourism and
fishing. It still boasts one of Victoria's largest fishing fleets. The
seas provide good catches of shark (it is a deep sea angler's delight),
crayfish and abalone.
Things to see:
Historic Walks
The Port Fairy Visitor Information Centre in Bank
Street has extensive information about the town. Of particular interest
are the brochures which outline suitable historic walks around the
town. There are over 50 historic buildings in Port Fairy and it makes
sense to get a map and a brochure before attempting to explore them.
There is a brochure which nominates only 13 which is manageable for
those who do not wish to see all the important buildings in town.
Port Fairy History Centre
Located in Gipps Street the History Centre has a good
display of memorabilia and photographs which capture a sense of what
the town was like in the late 19th and early 20th century. It is
located on the old Court House which dates from 1859 and is a fine
example of a design by the Public Works Department which was built out
of local bluestone. It was once the home of sittings for the Supreme
Court, Quarter Sessions and the Magistrates Court. It is huge and the
ceilings are a reminder of the importance of the town when the building
was completed. It is open Wednesdays and weekends 2:00 p.m. to 4:00
p.m.; daily during school holidays. Other times by appointment.
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Boats on the Moyne River at
Port Fairy
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Port Fairy Wharves
In many ways the greatest attraction of Port Fairy is
simply to park your car down beside the Moyne River and go for a walk.
The walk along the wharves is delightful and can take you up into the
town (if you head north) or towards Griffiths Island if you head south.
The wharves are used by casual anglers as well as the commercial
anglers who bring their catch in from the Southern Ocean.
Griffiths Island
If you continue south on Gipps Street you will reach a
point where you can walk across a footbridge to Griffiths Island. This
is a delightful way to spend a few hours. There is a track around the
island which includes the Mutton Bird Viewing point and the lighthouse
on the island's eastern extremity.
The island has an interesting history. It was known as
'mallin' or 'mallone' by the local Aborigines. By 1836 there was a
whaling station on the island and one of the partners running it was
John Griffiths after whom the island is now named. By around 1850 a Mrs
Dunlop had established a mission to Aborigines on the island. This
lasted until about 1853. The current appearance of the island is partly
due to the construction of a breakwater which silted up and created a
situation where the part of the island where the lighthouse is actually
connected with the main part of the island. The island is home to a
large colony of muttonbirds (short-tailed shearwaters). The birds
arrive within three days of the 22 September each year, settle in last
year's burrow, mate in early November, the eggs are laid around 25
November and take around a month to hatch which means that the young
start to appear in mid-January. In mid-April the birds head off on
their annual migration around the Pacific. They travel an estimated
15,000 km in two months. Viewing the birds from the platform on
Griffiths Island is best at dusk between September and April.
ANZ Bank
Originally known as The Colonial Bank this simple and
gracious building opened its doors to the public in 1856. It is a
classical Georgian design with a Georgian fanlight complementing the
doorway, arched windows and iron railings around the outside.
Constructed of dark bluestone and panelled inside with hardwood it was
designed to serve the local farmers much more than the local whalers.
Its most famous customer was the poet Adam Lindsay Gordon.
Seacombe House
Located on the corner of Sackville and Cox Streets,
Seacombe House was completed in 1847 by Captain John Sanders. It was
originally known as Stag Hotel and in the 1850s became the centre of
the town's social life with an upstairs ballroom being used for dinners
and dances. It continued as a hotel until 1873 and then became a guest
house and later a boy's school.
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Motts Cottage
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Mott's Cottage
No one knows for certain when this historic cottage
was built but it was some time in the 1830s or 1840s. The only piece of
that original cottage which is left is the timber and stone rubble
section. The second storey was added in the 1860s and the back section
in the 1880s. Located in Sackville Street, the cottage has been
restored as an example of a typical Port Fairy working man's cottage.
It is located at 3 Sackville Street.
Emoh
Located at 8 Cox Street
this is a fine example of an elaborate merchant's home. It was built
around 1847 by William Rutledge who, at the time, was known as the
'King of Port Fairy'. At its peak this was one of the town's most
famous residences. Rolf Boldrewood, who wrote 'Robbery Under Arms',
recalls the wonderful hospitality that Rutledge offered before his firm
crashed in 1862. After that it was a doctor's surgery until it was
converted into a Youth Hostel.
The Merrijig Inn
A real insight into the early history of the town the
Merrijig Inn, known as 'The Royal Merrijig Inn' when it was first
built, was designed to cater for the considerable thirsts of the
whalers and sealers who first settled Port Fairy. Over the years this
simple building, located on the corner of Campbell and Gibbs Streets,
has served as the meeting room for the local council and as a local
court house. There was also a time when the authorities occupied the
building and turned it into a Police Barracks housing horses as well as
twelve policemen - six mounted and six foot soldiers. Over the road is
an old iron cannon which was brought to Port Fairy in the 1890s when it
was feared that the Russians were going to invade Victoria.
Moyne Mill
Located in Gipps Street near the wharf, the Old Moyne
Mill dates from the 1860s. It was built by Dr Alexander Russell and
originally it had five storeys. It is a comment on the changing nature
of society that in recent times it has been used as a skating rink.
John Mills Cottage
Sometimes known as Captain Mills Cottage this was the
home of John Mills, one of the brothers who were the first settlers in
Port Fairy. It is located at 40 Gipps Street and is a fine example of a
cottage dating from the early 1840s. From this house Mills started his
importing business which saw him bringing shoes, rum and building
materials to the district.
Star of the West Hotel
Located on the corner of Sackville and Bank Streets,
the Star of the West Hotel was completed in 1856 by John Taylor. An
impressive and solid basalt building, The Star's main claim to fame was
that it was used as the town's Cobb & Co destination and consequently
was the centre of the town for many years.
St Patrick's Church
The town's first Catholic Church was a wooden shed. St
Patrick's is a comment on the strong Irish community which settled at
Port Fairy. It was completed in 1858 at a cost of £6500 to a
design by the notable local architect, Nathaniel Billing. The church,
which is located on the Princes Highway, was built of basalt and Hobart
stone in a typical Gothic Revival Style.
St John's Church of England
The tower of St John's can be seen from most points
around the town. This Gothic Revival Church was originally planned to
be the main Anglican cathedral in Western Victoria. It was built from
1853-57 of basalt. The carvings were done by local stonemason, Walter
McGill, and the architect was the prolific, Nathaniel Billing.
Battery Hill and Fort
This is worth a visit simply because it offers a
different perspective on the township. The guns possibly date from the
1860s and are more evidence of the concern about a Russian invasion
which swept along this stretch of the coastline. The current guns were
installed in 1885 but they have been rarely fired. On one occasion the
vibration from the firing was so great that it broke some windows in
the Moyne Mill over the river. You have to cross the Moyne to get to
Battery Hill.
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Woodbine House near Port
Fairy
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Woodbine
This
was the home of Charles Mills who was one of the original settlers at
Port Fairy. The two-storey, five room house with stables was
constructed out of limestone rubble in 1845-46 and is an excellent
example of Georgian rural architecture. It is one of the oldest farm
houses in Victoria. It now stands in splendid isolation on Woodbine
Road at Belfast Lough.
Shipwreck Walk
In 1988 the local council developed a walk which was
named the 'Shipwreck Walk' and which starts at the local Surf Club
(travel north on Gipps Street, cross the Moyne River and turn into
Hughes Avenue). The walk is 2.1 km and runs from the Surf Club to the
mouth of the Moyne River. The shipwrecks along this short stretch of
coastline include (from north to south) the Barque Socrates which was
battered and finally destroyed by huge seas in 1843; the Barque Lydia
which was wrecked off the coast in 1847; the Schooner Thistle which
broke her anchor chain and was wrecked on the coast in 1837 and the
Brig. Essington which sank while moored at Port Fairy in 1852.
Botanical Gardens
The Port Fairy Botanical Gardens, in Fairy St, were
established when the police paddocks were put aside for that purpose in
1858. The ground was swampy and reclamation work was carried out. Baron
von Mueller, the original curator of the Melbourne Botanical Gardens
acted as an advisor regarding the initial plantings and it is thought
he supplied the aleppo and stone pines which are still growing in the
Gardens today. In 1871 the Gardens were enlarged and 100 Norfolk pines
planted. The land for the oval was set aside in 1887. An aviary with
peacocks was established. However, the area fell into disrepair and
work commenced on their revitalisation in 1986.
Lady Julia Percy Island
This volcanic outcrop is located 17 km from Port
Fairy. The island is surrounded by almost vertical cliffs which range
in height from 32 metres to 46 metres. It is home to rookeries of
muttonbirds, kestrels, swamp harriers, sooty oystercatchers and blue
penguins. There are also seals which live on the ledges around the
shoreline and eat squid and crabs. If the weather is suitable there are
trips to the island. Contact (03) 5568 1372 for more details.
Diving
Port Fairy is part of the
shipwreck coast and as such has a number of good wrecks which are worth
exploring. The wreck of the 'Thistle', which sank off Port Fairy's east
beach in 1849, now lies in only 2 metres of water and is popular with
scuba divers.
A Book About The Great Ocean Road
The best book about the Great Ocean Road is the
remarkably cheap ($19.95 for a full colour hardback) book by Port
Campbell photographer, Rodney Hyett. It is 96 pages long and has
everything you could possibly want great photographs, maps of the
area, a potted history of the area, details about national parks and
visitor information centres, accommodation, walking tracks, even
details of the region's eight lighthouses and succinct (not as detailed
as this website) pieces of information about all the major destinations
from Queenscliff to Cape Bridgewater. If you are planning to travel the
Great Ocean Road and explore the totality of its attractions this is a
small masterpiece of publishing and a great travel guide. It is
available from many shops along the way and can be ordered from Port
Campbell Shopping at http://www.portcampbellshopping.com.au.
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Tourist Information
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Port Fairy Visitor Information Centre
22 Bank St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2682
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Motels
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Anchorage Learnean Motel
115 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1145
Rating: **
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Douglas-On-River Motel
89 Gipps St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1016
Rating: **
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Dublin House Inn
57 Bank St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1822
Rating: **
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Lady Julia Percy Motel
54 Sackville St
P.O. Box 73
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1800
Rating: **
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Motel Port Fairy
124 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1735
Rating: **
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Seacombe House Motor Inn
22 Sackville St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1082
Email: enquires@seacombehouse.com.au
Rating: ***
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Caledonian Inn Motel/Hotel
Cnr Bank & James Sts
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1044
Rating: **
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Hotels
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Oscars Waterfront Boutique Hotel
41B Gipps St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 3022
Facsimile: (03) 5568 3042
Email: info@oscarswaterfront.com
Rating: ****
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Oscars Waterfront Boutique Hotel
41B Gipps St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 3022
Facsimile: (03) 5568 3042
Email: info@oscarswaterfront.com
Rating: ****
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Hotels
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Royal Oak Hotel Port Fairy
9 Bank St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1018
Rating: *
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Seacombe House Private Hotel
22 Sackville St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1082
Rating: *
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Cherry Plum Cottage Bed & Breakfast
Albert Rd
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2433
Rating: ***
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Clonmara Bed & Breakfast
106 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2595
Email: clonmara@bigpond.com
Rating: ****
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Cona Point Fairy Bed & Breakfast
Cnr Princes Hwy & Villiers St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1000
Rating: ***
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Hickory House Bed & Breakfast
4 Princes St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2530
Rating: ****
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Kilkarlen at Killarney Bed & Breakfast
Survey Lane
Killarney 3283
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 7258
Rating: ****
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Kingsley Bed & Breakfast
71 Cox St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1269
Rating: ****
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Merrijig Inn Guesthouse
1 Campbell St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2324
Rating: ***
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Roisheen Bed & Breakfast
RMB 4460 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 7303
Rating: ***
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The Boathouse on Moyne Bed & Breakfast
19 Gipps St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2608
Rating: ***
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Gobles Mill House Bed & Breakfast
75 Gipps St
P.O. Box 68
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1118
Rating: ***
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Apartments
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Abavest Holiday Apartments
Bourne Ave
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 7206
Rating: ***
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Douglas House Holiday Apartments
89 Gipps St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1016
Rating: **
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Eastern Beach Holiday Apartments
Cnr Griffith St & Bourne Ave
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1117
Rating: ***
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Garden Pavilions Holiday Apartments
11 Tieman St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1045
Rating: ***
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Moloney Holiday Apartment
31 Reardon St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2795
Rating: ***
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Moorings on Moyne Apartments
69A Gipps St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5561 4690
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Mungala Holiday Apartments
192 Griffith St
P.O. Box 68
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: *(03) 5568 1118
Rating: ***
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Norfolk Pine Holiday Apartments
111 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2296
Rating: ***
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Skye Beachfront Retreat
70 Griffith St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 9482 3492
Rating: ****
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Tandara-On-Sea Holiday Apartments
190 Griffith St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1852
Rating: ***
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Terrace Holiday Apartments
106 Griffith St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1743 or (03) 5568 1510
Rating: ***
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Cottages & Cabins
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Dublin House Inn Cottage
17 Gipps St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1822
Rating: ***
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Myndarra Cottage
Porters Rd
Orford 3284
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 9201
Rating: ***
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Port Fairy Colonial Cottages
27 & 49 Regent St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1234 or 015 568 543
Rating: ***
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Railway Cottage
56 Gipps St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 7345
Rating: ***
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Seacombe House Historic Cottage
22 Sackville St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1082
Rating: ***
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Whalers Cottages
Cnr Whalers Dve & Regent St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1488
Rating: ***
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Caravan Parks
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Anchorage Learnean Holiday Park
115 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1145
Rating: ****
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Belfast Cove Caravan Park
139 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1816
Rating: ***
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Catalina Caravan Park
Princes Hwy
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1608
Rating: ***
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Gardens Reserve Caravan Park
111 Griffith St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1060
Rating: ***
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Gum Tree Caravan Park
Toolong Rd
P.O. Box 23
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1462
Rating: ***
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Southcombe by the Sea Caravan Park
James St
P.O. Box 175
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2677
Rating: ***
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Camping & Other
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Dublin House Inn Townhouse
57 Bank St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1822
Rating: ***
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Restaurants
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Caledonian Inn Restaurant
Cnr Bank & James Sts
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1044
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Dublin House Inn Restaurant
Bank St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1822
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Four Seasons Bistro
Sackville St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1918
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Lady Julia Percy Motel
54 Sackville St
P.O. Box 73
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1800
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Lunch On Bank
Bank St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2642
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Merrijig Inn Guesthouse
1 Campbell St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2324
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Port Fairy Pizza & Bistro
Sackville St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1756
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Portofino by the Sea
Bank St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1047
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Seacombe House Motor Inn
22 Sackville St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1082
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The Stag Restaurant
Sackville St
Port Fairy
VIC
3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1077
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